Main dish
Hünkâr beğendi
Origin: İstanbul, Marmara
Cubes of stewed lamb served on a smoky aubergine purée thickened with milk, butter and roasted flour.
Hünkâr beğendi has two parts. The base is beğendi, an aubergine purée. Whole aubergines are grilled until the skin burns, which gives a smoky taste. The flesh is peeled and mashed, then stirred with milk, melted butter and flour roasted in butter. Some cooks add grated kaşar cheese. The topping is lamb, or sometimes beef, cut into cubes. It is cooked with onion and tomato paste until tender and spooned over the purée.
The name means "the sultan liked it". The dish comes from Ottoman palace cuisine. According to Cumhuriyet, tradition links the name to Sultan Abdülaziz. Today it is a main course in traditional Istanbul restaurants. Pandeli, above the Spice Bazaar in Eminönü, lists a lamb version on its menu.
Dietary notes: contains lamb or beef, milk and butter, and often cheese. The flour is wheat, so the dish contains gluten.