A day in Selçuk: Ephesus and around

Selçuk is a town in İzmir Province, about 2 km northeast of the ancient city of Ephesus. Ephesus became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015. In Roman times it was the capital of the province of Asia. The town, the ruins and the village of Şirince fit into one long day.

Getting there from İzmir

İZBAN commuter trains have run to Selçuk since 2017; passengers from central İzmir change at Tepeköy. Regional trains from İzmir to Söke, Nazilli and Denizli also stop at Selçuk. You can take a train from İzmir Adnan Menderes Airport to Selçuk town centre. Frequent minibuses connect Selçuk with İzmir, Ephesus, Şirince and Kuşadası.

Morning: Ephesus

Go to Ephesus early, by minibus or taxi from Selçuk. The Library of Celsus was built around AD 125 in memory of Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, a governor of Roman Asia. His son Gaius Julius Aquila completed most of it. It once held nearly 12,000 scrolls.

The Great Theatre seated about 25,000 people. The Terrace Houses are six Roman homes with mosaics and wall paintings, now under a protective roof. The old harbour has silted up and lies about 5 km inland today. The site is visited on foot, over stone paving and steps.

Midday: Ayasuluk Hill and the museum

Back in Selçuk, the Basilica of St John stands on the slopes of Ayasuluk Hill, below the fortress. Emperor Justinian I had it built in the 6th century over the reputed tomb of John the Apostle. Work began by 548 and was finished by 565. The ruins are within walking distance of the town centre.

Next to the basilica stands the İsa Bey Mosque, built by the Aydinids in 1375. Of the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, a single column remains. It is also within walking distance of the town.

The Ephesus Museum in Selçuk shows finds from the excavations. It opened in 1964 and reopened in November 2014 after renovation. The collection has about 64,000 pieces from the Hellenistic, Roman and early Christian periods. The best-known exhibit is a statue of Artemis from the Temple of Artemis, and a separate hall shows finds from the Terrace Houses.

Afternoon: Şirince

Şirince is about 8 km east of Selçuk. Most of the houses seen today date from the 19th century. An Ottoman record of 1650 names the village Çirkince, and the governor of İzmir renamed it Şirince in 1926. There is a church on the village square. Vineyards and orchards around the village produce wine and fruit.

Before you head to Şirince, check the time of the last train back to İzmir. Minibuses take you from the village back to Selçuk.